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It’s the most important meal of the day, but it’s easy to get in a breakfast rut. Luckily, 2019 was the year we added pickles to our breakfast sandwiches, cornstarch to our scrambles, and caviar to our breakfast carbs. These are the best things we did to and with breakfast this year, and you should try them all.
Instead of the usual tomato-based sauce, we use a simple sausage gravy, then layer it with no-boil noodles, lots of cheddar and gruyere, and some green onion. (It’s basically a much faster version of this 10-hour recipe, which uses noodles you have to cook separately and spinach.) If you’ve been dreaming of a breakfast casserole that doesn’t rely heavily on eggs, this is the hot dish for you.
We start by taking some goat brie and, using an immersion blender, emulsifying that gorgeous hunk of dairy (rind and all) right into the eggs. Next, we take that glorious mixture, and pour it right on top of a pile of sizzling, lacy shredded cheddar, to create a frico-like crust on the outside of the omelette. Finally, we lay down some thin slices of gruyere on the inside of the omelette, because a cheese omelette cannot call itself a cheese omelette if there isn’t a layer of stringy, melted cheese inside of it.
When you think about it, pickles are an ideal breakfast sandwich topping. Whichever one you like best—Lebanon bologna or pork roll for me—breakfast meats are heavy on the salt and fat. This is not a dig: it’s why we love them. Throw on an oozing egg and some melted cheese and you’ve got a nearly perfect food—but one that’s almost too rich. Much like a smear of relish on a grilled cheese, slipping a few pickle slices into your breakfast sandwich ties the whole mess together.
For those of you worried about fishy flavor, be advised that lumpfish roe is much milder than any smoked fish you’ll find on a bagel. For those who think this is cost prohibitive, please consider that you can purchase lumpfish roe for less than 10 bucks a jar, and tobiko (which would also be very good here) for half that. For those who are thinking I am suggesting roe and syrup on one bready vessel, please get ahold of yourself.
Why eat instant oatmeal (which is mushy and bland), when you could eat instant ramen (which is toothsome and packed with umami)? Much like savory oatmeal, breakfast ramen can be customized almost endlessly, but I highly recommend topping it with some sort of egg, be it poached directly in the broth, or boiled and marinated.
At home, I like to keep hash brown patties in the freezer, as I have found they make my mornings 100% more lovely. Beyond accompanying breakfast sandwiches, they make excellent delivery systems for a wide variety of breakfast foods. If you would put it on toast, you should put it on a hash brown patty and it will, in my esteemed opinion, be the better for it.
I’m not suggesting you swap out your morning Starbucks run for Pinkberry, but that’s mainly because I don’t think they’re open that early. What I am suggesting you do is make your own (reasonably sweetened) honey vanilla froyo with Greek yogurt, so you can feel virtuous about all the protein, but still bring some whimsy and fun into your day before lunch.
Cornstarch—a common thickening agent—works wonders here, letting you cook eggs that seem slow-cooked in a fraction of the time. The curds are larger than the truly slow bois, but texture is just as rich, and still has that whole “cheesy without cheese” vibe going for it which, in my esteemed, highly-valued opinion, is the whole point of the slow scramble.
A good breakfast steak should be flavorful, but not overwhelmingly so—you want the eggs to get their chance to shine—decently marbled, but not too fatty, and quick-cooking, so you don’t have to spend too much of your morning over a hot stove.
Of course, like any grain-based porridge, oatmeal can be savory, but it’s not as simple as making instant oatmeal and throwing some cheese on it. For the best savory oatmeal, you need to treat it like risotto, making risoatto.
Everyone loves a Pumpkin Spice Latte, but the true heroes of Starbucks’ current menu are the sous-vide egg bites. The perfect little pucks of protein are oddly satisfying and delightfully savory but, if you have an immersion circulator, you can make an even more delicious version at home (and enjoy it with a better cup of coffee).
The bologna was crispy on the edges, the cheese was completely melted, and the egg was cooked through, but the yolk was still a little custardy. It reminded me of an Egg McMuffin, but with bologna instead of Canadian bacon. Obviously, I had to try it with Canadian bacon.
I usually prefer a classic diner hash brown, but those can be a pain to make from scratch. (The shredding, followed by wringing out moisture, is just too much for a morning.) Home fries seem like a better home cook option, but the perfect bite of crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside potato is difficult to achieve with a frying pan alone. For truly delicious home fries, you need to get basic—as in, a pH that’s greater than seven.
The only thing better than a pile of breakfast meats and carbs, I reasoned, is that same pile covered in sausage gravy. Before long, I’d schemed up a cross between my cousins’ absolutely banging sausage-and-canned biscuit casserole and the Yearwood-Brooks Ritual Breakfast Pile—but with gravy. The world does not need this; I made it anyway, and I refuse to apologize.
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