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All-purpose flour is the pastry chef’s multitool. With it, you can make cake batter, roux, pizza dough, or paper mache masks. (Do not eat the mask.) All-purpose flour is so ubiquitous, it’s usually not specified by name in a recipe, and often referred to simply as “flour.” With a middle-of-the-road percentage of gluten (10-12%), all-purpose flour has the ability to develop enough elasticity to make a decent lean bread.
These days, you can find it bleached or unbleached. The bleaching process creates a stark white product, with a finer, clumpier crumb, and a slightly different flavor. Unbleached (my go-to is Heckers) has a creamier white color and a looser texture, as it hasn’t been refined by the bleaching process.
When treated delicately, and mixed with enough shortening agents, all-purpose flour can create a crumbly cookie or tender cake. Any American recipe that simply lists “flour” is referring to all-purpose. In a pinch you can use this flour to substitute for others, understanding that it will slightly affect the texture of your baked good.
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