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In theory, résumés should be relatively easy to put together: After all, we’re essentially making a list of our career-related experiences, accomplishments, and previous positions. But of course, that’s far from the truth.

Although most people know that it’s best to constantly update our résumé—even if we’ve been in the same role or with the same company for years—it’s one of those tasks that we tend to put off until we actually need to do it.

And whether you’re new to the job market, constantly searching for opportunities to progress in your career, or looking for a new position after a long stint with the same employer, it can be tough to know what, exactly, to include on a résumé.

To help us out, the experts at Entrepreneur have put together a list of the skills that you should always include on your résumé, if you can. Here’s what to know.

Always include these skills on your résumé

This should be a given, but don’t lie on your résumé.

With that out of the way, if you possess the following soft skills, you should probably include them on your résumé, according to staff at Entrepreneur:

Soft skills

1. Leadership
2. Communication
3. Problem-solving
4. Being well-organized
5. Time-management
6. Writing
7. Working well with a team
8. Customer service
9. Marketing

Hard skills

According to the experts at Entrepreneur, employers love seeing these hard skills—which are more technical and specific, and often require training—on résumés:

1. Project management
2. Data analysis
3. Enterprise resource planning (ESP)
4. Generalized computer proficiency
5. Program proficiency (especially any listed in the job description)
6. Programming language proficiencies (in languages like C++, CSS, Python, and HTML)
7. Search engine optimization (SEO) proficiency
8. Customer relationship management (CRM) software proficiency
9. Budgeting experience
10. Bookkeeping
11. Web development

Many of the skills listed above are relatively broad, so be sure to get more specific when applicable—like listing the software you have experience using, or the types of writing you did in previous roles.

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Have you ever followed a recipe to the letter, but when it came time to remove the dish from the oven, you found that it was significantly over- or undercooked? There could be several reasons for this—one being that your oven may need to be calibrated. Here’s how to do that on various types of oven.

Why calibrate an oven?

Over time, the temperature you set your oven to using the controls may fall out-of-sync with its actual internal temperature. In other words, if you set it to bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, it may be getting hotter or colder than that inside the oven, affecting the outcome of the dish.

How to tell if your oven needs to be calibrated

Before adjusting anything, do a quick test to see if your oven does, in fact, need to be calibrated. To do this:

1. Place an oven-safe thermometer in the center of the middle rack of your oven, and close the door.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Once the oven indicates that it has reached 350F, set a timer for 30 minutes (leaving the thermometer in the oven).
3. If possible, read the thermometer through the oven door. If not, quickly remove it and read it immediately.

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Most ovens won’t be exactly on-the-nose: In fact, anything within 15 degrees of 350F is considered normal. But if your thermometer indicates that it was 335F or below, or 365F or above in your oven, it’s time to calibrate.

How to calibrate an oven

The calibration process will depend on a few different factors, including the brand of your oven, whether it’s gas or electric, and whether the controls are digital or analog.

The easiest way to find out to calibrate your oven is to check the owner’s manual. If you no longer have it, do a quick online search for your oven’s brand, make, and model, and you should be able to find a digital version of the manual. The manual will provide instructions for calibration, but for now, here’s a general overview:

Gas or electric oven with digital controls

The process will vary depending on the brand of the oven. For example, if you have a Whirlpool or Frigidaire oven, press and hold the “Bake” button until “Cal” appears. Then use the arrows to adjust the temperature, going up or down by 10-degree increments, based on whether your oven is running hot, or cold. So, if the test indicated that when you set your oven to 350F, it’s actually 370F inside, you’d hit the “down” arrow twice. Lastly, hit the “Enter” button.

Electric oven with analog controls

Gently pull the knob or dial you use to adjust the oven’s temperature off the front of the oven. If you are having trouble, you can place a piece of string or wire around the back of the knob to help you pry it off.

There should be either one or two screws on the back of the dial: Turning these adjusts the oven’s internal temperature. Only turn the screw(s) 1/8 of a turn, going clockwise to decrease the temperature, and counterclockwise to increase it (the controls are very sensitive).

Then replace the dial, and run the thermometer test again. If the temperature is still off, go through the process again.

Gas oven with analog controls

Because gas is involved, this one is best left to professionals to ensure that everything is done safely.

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GreyNoise Intelligence unveiled its research report that dives deep into the most significant threat detection events of the past 12 months.

“When it comes to cybersecurity, not all vulnerabilities are created equal, and many of the ones that garner media attention actually turn out to be insignificant,” said Bob Rudis, VP Research & Data Science, GreyNoise Intelligence.

GreyNoise added over 230 new detection tags in 2022, representing an increase of approximately 38% from 2021. For its 2022 report, researchers provide insights into:

• The celebrity vulnerability hype cycle, with a breakdown of the CVE-2022-1388, an F5 Big-IP iControl REST Authentication Bypass
• How hard attackers will work to never let a critical vulnerability go to waste by looking at the depth and breadth of CVE-2022-26134, a critical weakness in Atlassian Confluence
• The impact of the CISA Known Exploited Vulnerabilities catalog releases on defenders

In addition to insights about the most significant threat detection events of 2022, the report offers predictions for 2023 from GreyNoise VP Data Science Bob Rudis:

Expect daily, persistent internet-facing exploit attempts

“We see Log4j attack payloads every day. It’s part of the new ‘background noise’ of the internet, and the exploit code has been baked into numerous kits used by adversaries of every level. It’s very low risk for attackers to look for newly-exposed or re-exposed hosts, with the weakness unpatched or unmitigated. This means organizations must continue to be deliberate and diligent when placing services on the internet,” said Rudis.

Expect more post-initial access internal attacks

“CISA’s database of software affected by the Log4j weakness stopped receiving regular updates earlier this year. The last update showed either ‘Unknown’ or ‘Affected’ status for ~35% (~1,550) of products cataloged. Attackers know that existing products have embedded Log4j weaknesses, and have already used the exploit in ransomware campaigns. If you have not yet dealt with your internal Log4j patching, early 2023 would be a good time to do so,” added Rudis.

Expect headline-grabbing Log4j-centric attacks

“Organizations have to strive for perfection, while attackers need only persistence and luck to find that one device or service that is still exposing a weakness. We will see more organizations impacted by this, and it is vital you do what you can to ensure yours isn’t one of them,” concluded Rudis.

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The bad news: the crooks have your SSH private keys. The good news: only users of the "nightly" build were affected.
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Chances are, you’ve probably heard—or possibly even repeated—the enduring myth that we swallow an average of eight (or four, or some other random number of) spiders each year. While that’s not true, it would not be unheard of for a spider to crawl into your bed at some point during the day or night.

If that’s a concern for you, there are ways to make your bed less welcoming to spiders. Here’s what to know.

How to make your bed less accessible to spiders

Even the most tightly sealed homes have some type of opening to the outdoors, whether it’s a slight crack in a wall, patchy weatherstripping under a door, or a barely open window. Though tiny, these openings make it possible for spiders, insects, and other bugs to gain access to the inside of your home—including your bedroom.

Here are a few easy ways to decrease your chances of a spider wandering onto your bed:

Move your bed away from the wall

You don’t need to position your bed in the center of the room, but if your mattress or frame is pushed directly up against a wall (or two) or a window, spiders can easily crawl onto your bed. Moving your bed even a few inches away from the wall or window can help.

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Also, tuck your bedsheets and any blankets under your mattress, instead of letting them hang down off the side of the bed. If they’re touching the floor, spiders can use them to climb up onto your bed.

Make a peppermint oil spray

Although several types of essential oils (cinnamon, tea tree, lemon) are supposed to keep spiders, ants, and various insects away, peppermint oil tends to be the most effective. To make your own repellant, fill a clean, 16-oz spray bottle with water, add five drops of peppermint oil, a squirt of liquid dish soap, and shake it up.

Spritz the perimeter of your bed frame, under your bed, the windowsill, and anywhere else spiders may congregate.

Keep your room clean

Don’t eat in bed, or do anything else that would attract other insects. Spiders may not want your crumbs, but plenty of other bugs do, and spiders will eat them. Also, keep the area under your bed as clean as possible. Spiders like to hang out in dark, cluttered spaces, so vacuuming under your bed—and storing stuff in sealed containers—won’t make it very appealing to them.

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Like airfare, daily rates for car rentals tend to be quite a bit higher than the advertised prices, once you factor in taxes, fees, and a variety of surcharges. And that’s not even counting extras like insurance, or additional drivers.

Fortunately, more travel sites are including the total cost of rentals when displaying search results, giving consumers a better idea of what they’ll actually end up paying.

But that wasn’t the case for some people who rented vehicles from Avis and Budget and received higher-than-expected bills, then filed a class-action lawsuit against the company in 2011. It came to a conclusion earlier this year, when the Avis Budget Group agreed to a $45 million settlement. Here’s how to find out if you’re eligible to part of that.

Why is there a class-action lawsuit against Avis and Budget?

According to the settlement website, a group of Avis and Budget customers claim that they were billed for enrolling in an e-Toll payment system that wasn’t mentioned in their contract. The Avis Budget Group denies any wrongdoing, but did agree to the $45 million payout to settle the lawsuit back in June.

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Who can claim money from the settlement?

In order to be eligible to receive part of the $45 million settlement, you must be a U.S. resident who rented an Avis or Budget vehicle between April 1, 2007 and Dec. 31, 2015—unless you rented the car in Florida, Texas, or Colorado (in which case it had to be between March 2, 2009 to Dec. 31, 2015). Additionally, you must have also paid Avis, Budget, or the Highway Toll Administration for use of their e-Toll service in connection with that rental.

How much money can customers receive from the settlement?

The amount of money you could potentially get from the settlement depends on how many times you rented a car from Avis or Budget during that period, and were charged for using their e-Toll service.

More specifically, you could get up to 80% of those fees back on your first and second eligible rentals, and up to 65% of them back for your third through seventh eligible rentals.

The average total payouts per customer are expected to be between $9.36 (for one eligible rental) and $46.07 (for seven eligible rentals), according to the settlement website.

How to file a claim

There are two ways to submit a claim to part of the settlement:

1. Fill out and file this online claim form; OR
   
2. Download and fill out this claim form, then and mail it to:
   
   Avis Budget Group E-Toll Settlement
   c/o Settlement Administrator
   1650 Arch Street, Suite 2210
   Philadelphia, PA 19103

Claim forms sent by mail should be postmarked no later than Feb. 28, 2023. Online forms must be submitted by 11:59 p.m. PT on the same date. See the settlement website for more information.

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Last week’s winter storm left hundreds of thousands of people across the United States without power, as it hit the country less than a week into the season. And with the Farmers’ Almanac extended forecast predicting a long, cold, wet winter for much of America, there’s a good chance the deadly storm—which claimed the lives of at least 37 people—was only the beginning.

With extreme weather happening year-round, many households are opting to purchase a generator as a backup power supply, in order to keep at least a few appliances running during electricity outages.

While generators are great to have around when you need them, they can also pose safety risks if used improperly. Here are a few mistakes to avoid when running a generator.

Not reading the manual

Technically, this is a mistake to avoid before you’re in a position of having to run your generator. Though there are general guidelines for use, different models have different requirements regarding where and how to run it safely. Don’t wait to read the manual to figure out how it works until you’re stuck in the dark.

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Running a generator too close to your home

Stationary generators are permanently installed by a professional. Portable generators, on the other hand, are typically stored away until they’re needed.

Some run on propane, others are solar-powered, but a large number of portable generators are gasoline-fueled. This means that like car engines, they emit harmful carbon dioxide—something you don’t want anywhere near your living space.

The owner’s manual will specify exactly how far away from your home the generator needs to be, but it’s usually at least 20 feet, and somewhere out of reach for kids and pets.

Running a generator inside your home

Never run a gas-powered generator inside any part of your home—including the garage or basement—even if windows and doors are open. Again, this is because of the poisonous carbon monoxide gas it gives off. If it’s raining, try to find a dry surface, and run the generator under an open, canopy-like structure, if possible.

Plugging any random extension cords and/or power strips into the generator

Most regular household extension cords and power strips weren’t designed to accommodate the amount of power coming through a generator. If you need the length they provide, have a few extension cords for outdoor use (that are compatible with generators) next to your generator and ready to go when you need them.

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